
A Complete Guide for Foreigners
Part 1 of 3: Festivals, Seasons & Food
Part 1 of 3: Festivals, Seasons & Food
Japan is a country unlike any other on Earth. Nestled in the Pacific Ocean as a chain of four main islands, it has cultivated a civilization that balances ancient tradition with cutting-edge modernity, spiritual depth with everyday practicality, and breathtaking natural beauty with dense, vibrant cities. For centuries, Japan developed largely in isolation, and this unique history gave birth to customs, arts, philosophies, and ways of living that continue to astonish the world.
This guide is written for foreigners — whether you have never set foot in Japan, have visited briefly, or have lived there for years. It is designed to go far beyond tourist tips. We will explore the soul of Japan: why its festivals are sacred, how its food embodies the rhythm of nature, what the Japanese landscape looks like across all four seasons, how Japanese people think and behave, what rules of etiquette shape daily life, where the famous Japanese kindness comes from, why Filipinos and Japanese share such a remarkable bond, how the ancient gods of Japan are still alive today, and why — above all seasons — autumn in Japan is something that every human being should experience at least once.
Japan rewards those who look closely. A single festival can teach you more about Japanese values than any textbook. A bowl of soup served in the right season can make you understand what it means to live in harmony with nature. A quiet bow from a stranger can communicate more warmth than words ever could. This is the Japan we want to share with you — deep, honest, and full of wonder.
The word "matsuri" (祭り) comes from the verb "matsuru," meaning to worship, to honor, or to serve the gods. From its very root, a Japanese festival is not merely a party or a public celebration — it is an act of devotion. When Japanese people gather for a matsuri, they are participating in something that connects them to their ancestors, to the gods who protect their community, and to the natural world that sustains all life.
Japan currently has more than 300,000 registered festivals held across the country each year. That is nearly 822 festivals per day. Some are grand affairs drawing millions of visitors, with elaborate floats, fireworks, and processions that last for days. Others are intimate neighborhood ceremonies at tiny shrines, attended only by local families who have kept the tradition alive for generations. But whether grand or quiet, urban or rural, every matsuri shares the same essential spirit: gratitude, reverence, and community.
To understand why Japanese festivals feel so different from celebrations in other cultures, you need to understand Shinto — the indigenous spiritual tradition of Japan. Shinto teaches that kami (gods or divine spirits) inhabit all things: mountains, rivers, trees, stones, the wind, the ocean, the rice field, even the hearth of a home. The world is not a dead collection of matter — it is alive, sacred, and watched over by divine presences. A matsuri is the moment when the human community and the divine world make formal contact. It is a two-way conversation: humans express gratitude and ask for blessings, and the gods accept the offerings and renew their protection.

The oldest Japanese festivals grew directly from the agricultural calendar. Japan's civilization was built on rice farming, and rice farming is entirely dependent on weather — on the right amount of rain at the right time, on mild temperatures, on protection from storms and drought and disease. In a world without meteorology or modern irrigation, the only reliable way to negotiate with these forces was through spiritual means. And so the earliest matsuri were essentially contracts with the gods: "We offer you our finest rice wine, our prayers, our music, and our dancing — and in return, we ask you to send us rain, protect our crops, and give us a good harvest."
As centuries passed, these agricultural rituals became more elaborate and took on additional meanings. They absorbed Buddhist influences after Buddhism arrived from Korea and China in the 6th century. They became occasions for community solidarity, for displaying the wealth and cultural sophistication of a town, and for welcoming travelers and merchants. But the agricultural core never disappeared. Even today, when you watch a harvest festival in rural Japan, you are witnessing something that has been repeated in essentially the same form for over a thousand years.
The most iconic image of a Japanese festival is the mikoshi — a portable shrine carried on the shoulders of dozens or even hundreds of people. The mikoshi is, in essence, a palanquin for the god. During a festival, the god is believed to temporarily leave the main shrine building and travel through the community in the mikoshi, blessing every street and household it passes.
A mikoshi is a work of extraordinary craftsmanship. Made of lacquered wood, copper, and gold leaf, with intricate carvings of phoenixes, dragons, and clouds, a fine mikoshi can weigh several hundred kilograms and take skilled artisans years to build. Many mikoshi are hundreds of years old and are stored carefully in special buildings on shrine grounds, brought out only for the annual festival.
Carrying a mikoshi is a physical and spiritual act of great significance. The carriers — usually men dressed in white festival happi coats, headbands, and tabi (split-toe socks) — must prepare themselves by purifying their bodies and minds. They carry the mikoshi on wooden poles that rest on their shoulders, moving in a deliberate swaying rhythm accompanied by shouts of "Wasshoi! Wasshoi!" — a chant whose exact meaning has been debated by scholars but whose spirit is clearly one of joyful, communal effort. The swaying motion is said to please the god and increase its power.
For foreigners watching a mikoshi procession, the most striking thing is usually the intensity on the carriers' faces. This is not casual labor. The people carrying the mikoshi are sweating, grimacing, shouting — and yet there is something unmistakably joyful about it. They are experiencing something that connects them, in that moment, to every generation of people from their community who carried that same shrine through those same streets. It is a form of living history.
Many of Japan's most famous festivals center on enormous decorative floats called dashi (also called yama, hoko, or yatai depending on the region). These are not floats in the Western parade sense — they are architectural masterpieces on wheels. The most famous are the hoko and yatai floats of Kyoto's Gion Festival, some of which stand over 25 meters tall and are decorated with centuries-old Flemish tapestries, Chinese silk brocades, and intricate wood carvings that are recognized as National Treasures.
The floats take months to assemble each year by teams of specialists who have inherited the knowledge through family lines. The wooden frameworks are fitted together without nails, using techniques developed in the medieval period. Musicians playing flute and drums ride inside some floats, their haunting melodies drifting through the streets. Watching a massive float navigate a tight corner — wheels turned by teams of men using bamboo levers, the whole structure swaying slightly against the sky — is one of the most purely dramatic sights in all of Japanese culture.
At local festivals, smaller yatai carry musicians and sometimes children in elaborate costumes, performing traditional dances on the moving platform. The children chosen to ride the floats are considered especially blessed, chosen by the shrine for their good character and family reputation. It is a profound honor.
No matsuri is complete without the thunderous sound of taiko drums. These massive drums — some as tall as a person — are played with thick wooden sticks, and their deep, resonant beats can be heard from blocks away. The rhythm of the taiko is the heartbeat of the festival. It announces the arrival of the kami, guides the procession, and energizes the crowd.
Taiko drumming is an art form that requires years of training. The drummers move with choreographed precision, their bodies twisting and leaping as they strike the drum with full force. The sound is not just heard — it is felt, vibrating through your chest and into your bones. In Shinto belief, sound has the power to purify space and summon the divine, and the taiko serves exactly this purpose.
Japan is a country of extraordinary geographic and climatic diversity packed into a relatively small area. The archipelago stretches about 3,000 kilometers from the sub-arctic tip of Hokkaido in the north to the subtropical Yaeyama Islands south of Okinawa. Along this range, you find every climate from near-tundra to tropical, every landscape from alpine peaks to coral reefs, every tradition from ancient rice farming to deep-sea fishing to silk weaving to shipbuilding.
These differences in geography, climate, economy, and history have produced an equally dramatic diversity in festival culture. A festival in snowy Aomori in early August has almost nothing visually in common with a festival in humid Nagasaki in October or a festival in sun-baked Okinawa in summer. The same basic spiritual impulse — honoring the gods, expressing gratitude, strengthening community bonds — manifests in wildly different forms depending on the local culture, history, and available materials.
This regional diversity is one of Japan's greatest cultural treasures and one of the things that most surprises first-time visitors. Many people come to Japan thinking it is a uniform culture, and they are astonished to discover how dramatically things change from prefecture to prefecture, city to city, valley to valley. The festival calendar offers an ideal window into this diversity: travel Japan during festival season, and you will understand the country more deeply than any amount of museum-visiting could teach you.
The Gion Festival in Kyoto is widely considered Japan's most spectacular matsuri and one of the greatest festivals in the world. Held throughout the entire month of July at Yasaka Shrine in the Gion district, it has been observed without significant interruption for over 1,150 years, making it one of the oldest continuously held festivals in human history. Its origins lie in a great plague of 869 AD, when the Emperor ordered prayers and a purification ritual to calm the epidemic. The festival worked — at least, the plague eventually ended — and it has been repeated every year since.
The absolute highlight of Gion Matsuri is the Yamaboko Junko — the float procession held on July 17 and July 24. Thirty-three enormous floats, some standing over 25 meters tall and weighing up to 12 tons, are pulled through the narrow streets of central Kyoto by teams of men hauling thick ropes. The floats are decorated with extraordinary works of art: 16th-century Flemish tapestries originally imported through the Portuguese trade, Chinese and Indian silk brocades, hand-carved wood panels depicting scenes from Chinese and Japanese mythology, and embroidered hangings of breathtaking detail.
The most dramatic moment of the procession is the "tsuji-mawashi" (辻回し) — the turning of the float at a street corner. Because the floats have no steering mechanism, they are turned by teams of men who place wet bamboo slats under the wheels and then physically push and lever the massive structure around the corner to the sound of flutes and drums. Done with practiced precision, this maneuver is both terrifyingly impressive and deeply satisfying to watch — a triumph of human coordination over sheer scale.
Tenjin Matsuri, held on July 24-25 at Osaka Tenmangu Shrine, is one of Japan's Three Great Festivals and the supreme expression of Osaka's character: warm, exuberant, theatrical, and completely lacking in pretension. The festival honors Sugawara no Michizane — a brilliant 9th-century scholar and statesman who was unjustly exiled and died in bitter circumstances. After his death, a series of terrible disasters struck Kyoto, which were interpreted as the vengeful spirit of the wronged man. To appease him, he was deified as Tenjin, the god of learning, and shrines dedicated to him were established across Japan. Tenmangu shrines are now, among other things, popular pilgrimage destinations for students praying for exam success — a living tribute to the god's legendary intelligence.
The centerpiece of Tenjin Matsuri is the Funatogyo — the divine procession on the Okawa River. Over a hundred boats of various types crowd the river, some carrying musicians, some carrying festival officials in formal dress, some carrying the sacred portable shrine (mikoshi) in which the god himself travels through the water. The scene is spectacular even before nightfall, but when darkness comes and fireworks begin to explode over the river while all the boats carry blazing torches, it becomes something transcendent. The reflections of fire and fireworks on the dark water create an image of almost overwhelming beauty.
Kanda Matsuri, held in mid-May in odd-numbered years at Kanda Myojin Shrine in central Tokyo, carries the soul of old Edo — the city that Tokyo used to be — into the modern metropolis. This festival has been celebrated since the early 17th century and was one of the few festivals permitted to enter the grounds of Edo Castle, making it a favorite of the Tokugawa shoguns who ruled Japan for over 250 years.
One particularly fascinating aspect of modern Kanda Matsuri is its embrace of contemporary Akihabara culture. Since Kanda Myojin's precinct includes Akihabara — Japan's global capital of anime, manga, and electronic culture — the festival has become famous for its blend of traditional Shinto ritual and contemporary pop culture. Otaku in cosplay sometimes parade alongside portable shrine carriers. Local anime studios and game companies have built strong ties with the shrine. This is not a contradiction but a continuity: just as Edo's merchants brought their professional identity and pride into the festival, so do Akihabara's modern creative workers. The spirit of Kanda Matsuri — pride in one's craft and community — remains intact.
If you need to understand what "spectacular" really means in the context of Japanese festivals, go to Aomori in the first week of August for Nebuta Matsuri. From August 2-7, the streets of Aomori City are filled each evening with enormous illuminated floats depicting the faces and figures of mythological heroes, gods, warriors, and demons — each one a monumental sculpture of wire, washi paper, and paint, standing three stories tall and blazing with internal light.
The nebuta floats are moved through the streets at night, and the effect of these massive, brilliantly lit faces moving through the dark city — accompanied by the crash of taiko drums, the piercing wail of flutes, and the chanting of crowds — is unlike anything else in the world. The best word is "overwhelming." Your senses are simply not prepared for the scale and intensity of what you are seeing.
Around each nebuta dance the "haneto" — festival participants who wear specific traditional costumes: a kind of layered robe with bright pattern and a fan-shaped hat. Anyone, including foreigners, can be a haneto with the right costume, and the experience of dancing around these giants of light to the pounding of drums is one of the most viscerally joyful things Japan has to offer. The shout of the haneto — "Rassera! Rassera! Rasserasse-rasserasse-rassera!" — becomes a kind of ecstatic mantra by the end of the night.
The nebuta float makers (nebuta-shi) are celebrated artists who work year-round on their creations. Each float is unique, and the competition between makers is intense and good-natured. The best floats win prizes, and their makers are local celebrities. After the festival, the floats — which cannot be stored because of their size — are disassembled and disposed of, their magnificent existence lasting only seven nights. This deliberate impermanence is very Japanese: something can be supremely valuable and beautiful even if — especially if — it will not last.
Akita's Kanto Festival (August 3-6) is an exercise in the uncanny. The "kanto" is a long bamboo pole — up to 12 meters in length — from which hang 46 paper lanterns arranged on smaller cross-poles, creating a structure that resembles an enormous luminous tree. A kanto can weigh up to 50 kilograms. And during the festival, skilled performers called "sashite" balance these massive glowing structures on their foreheads, the palms of their hands, their shoulders, their lower backs — switching smoothly between balance points in an elaborate choreography performed to the sound of flutes and drums.
The sight of a long street lined with these swaying towers of light, each balanced by a single human being at its base, each performer surrounded by a team of assistants ready to catch it if it falls, is hypnotic and beautiful. The physical difficulty is extreme — the combination of weight, length, and wind makes these structures extraordinarily difficult to control. Falls do happen, and when they do, the assistants rush in immediately while the crowd gasps. But the best sashite move through their sequence of balance points with something that looks like effortless serenity, the kanto barely swaying as the lanterns glow orange against the summer night sky.
The kanto represents rice stalks bent heavy with grain — a direct expression of the agricultural prayer for a bountiful harvest that underlies so much of Japanese festival culture. Even in this age of supermarkets and international food imports, Akita's farmers and townspeople still gather each August to pray for good rice in the same way their ancestors did centuries ago. The form of the prayer has evolved into extraordinary performance art, but the intention has not changed at all.
The Tanabata legend is one of Japan's most beloved stories, imported from China but thoroughly domesticated over many centuries. According to the legend, two stars — Vega (the weaver girl, Orihime) and Altair (the cowherd boy, Hikoboshi) — fell so deeply in love that they neglected their duties, and the gods separated them on opposite sides of the Milky Way. They are allowed to meet only once a year, on the seventh day of the seventh month, when a bridge of birds spans the celestial river. On that night, it is traditional to write wishes on colored paper strips and hang them from bamboo branches — a prayer that the lovers' wish to be together will be granted, and by extension that all human wishes might come true.
Sendai's Tanabata Festival, held August 6-8, has taken this gentle tradition and transformed it into one of Japan's most visually dazzling events. The covered shopping arcades of central Sendai are hung ceiling-to-floor with elaborate streamers called "fukinagashi" — cascades of colored washi paper cut into intricate fringe patterns, attached to spherical decorations and arranged in sweeping compositions that fill every inch of the arcade with color and movement. In total, over 3,000 of these elaborate displays are created each year by local families, companies, and schools, each one handmade.
Walking through the Tanabata arcades of Sendai is like walking through a dream. The streamers move constantly in the air currents created by the moving crowd, their colors shifting — emerald green, deep purple, pure white, gold — in the filtered light. The craftsmanship of the individual pieces is extraordinary: some streamers incorporate paper cranes by the hundreds, others feature painted panels, miniature origami animals, or calligraphy of classical poetry. The whole thing is assembled over a period of weeks and exists for only three days before being taken down. This is pure, concentrated, temporary beauty — the Japanese aesthetic distilled to its essence.
If Gion Matsuri represents the aristocratic, artistic soul of Japanese festival culture, Kishiwada Danjiri Matsuri represents something raw, masculine, and gloriously dangerous. Held in September in Kishiwada, a coastal city in Osaka Prefecture, this festival involves teams of up to 1,000 people hauling enormous wooden floats (danjiri) at full sprint through the narrow streets of the old city, taking sharp corners at high speed in a maneuver called "yarimawashi" that tests the nerve of everyone involved.
The danjiri floats are masterpieces of woodworking — solid oak constructions decorated with elaborate relief carvings depicting battles, myths, and historical scenes — weighing up to four tons. They are moved by thick ropes pulled by teams of runners organized with military precision. The speed at which they run is remarkable: a full danjiri procession has the energy of a stampede, with the thundering of feet, the whooping of the crowd, the crash of taiko drums, and the creak and groan of the massive wooden structure all merging into a wall of sound and motion.
The most heart-stopping moment is the corner turn. Teams of men called "kanimawashi" use long wooden levers to turn the danjiri's front wheels at full speed, while acrobats called "daiku-kata" stand on top of the moving structure, performing gymnastic moves with fans while the floor tilts beneath them. Accidents do happen — people have been injured and occasionally killed in the long history of this festival — and yet this does not diminish the enthusiasm of participants, who regard it as a point of honor to run with full commitment. The spirit of Kishiwada Danjiri is the spirit of Osaka itself: bold, pragmatic, completely committed, and deeply proud.
Nagasaki has always been Japan's window to the world. During the 200-year period of Japan's self-imposed isolation (sakoku, 1639-1853), Nagasaki was the only port permitted to trade with foreign countries — specifically with the Dutch and the Chinese. This unique history produced a culture unlike any other in Japan: cosmopolitan, creative, marked by layers of Chinese, Dutch, Portuguese, and Japanese influence that have blended over centuries into something uniquely Nagasakian.
Nagasaki Kunchi, held October 7-9 at Suwa Shrine, is the perfect expression of this hybrid culture. The festival's "odori" (performance dances) include Chinese-style dragon dances performed by teams of men wielding a 60-meter dragon on poles, Dutch-inspired ship floats that rock and spin in the shrine courtyard, and traditional Japanese dances that draw on the full range of Nagasaki's cultural heritage. No other festival in Japan contains such a culturally diverse range of performances within a single Shinto ritual framework.
The dragon dance is perhaps the most impressive element. A team of about 50 men manipulates a massive dragon of painted scales, moving it in coordinated waves and spirals as drums and cymbals crash. The dragon carries a sphere representing the sun or a jewel, and the dance depicts the dragon chasing the sphere through the sky — a symbol of the endless pursuit of wisdom and enlightenment. Watching this performance in the courtyard of a Shinto shrine, surrounded by wooden torii gates and ancient stone lanterns, while knowing that this same dance has been performed here continuously since the late 17th century, is to feel the remarkable cultural generosity of Japanese civilization: its capacity to absorb foreign elements without losing its essential identity.
Okinawa is not quite Japan and not quite anywhere else — it is its own unique civilization, the heir to the ancient Ryukyu Kingdom that traded extensively with China, Southeast Asia, and eventually Japan and Europe. This rich, layered history produced a culture distinct from mainland Japan in almost every respect: in its language (or rather, languages — Okinawa has multiple related but distinct tongues), its food, its architecture, its music, its spirituality, and its festivals.
Eisa is the traditional dance and music performed in Okinawa during the Obon season to welcome the returning spirits of ancestors. Unlike the bon odori of mainland Japan, Eisa is driven by a powerful rhythmic energy derived from a combination of large taiko drums, smaller hand drums (paranku), traditional Okinawan songs, and chanted calls and responses. The dancers — young men and women from community youth groups called seinenkai — wear colorful traditional costumes and perform movements that range from the serene to the almost martial.
The energy of Eisa is unlike anything else in Japanese performing arts. It has an intensity that feels less like religious ceremony and more like pure life force — the expression of a tropical island culture's joy in being alive, moving, together. When a professional Eisa group performs at full power, with two dozen drummers synchronized to a single driving beat, the reverberations are physical; you feel them in your chest. The sound of Eisa carries the ocean breeze, the warmth of Okinawa's subtropical sun, and the particular sadness of a people who have known great suffering — Okinawa was the site of the bloodiest land battle of the Pacific War in 1945 — but have chosen to celebrate life rather than be defined by death.
In Japanese, the word "shun" (旬) refers to the peak season of a food — the specific window of time when an ingredient is at the absolute height of its flavor, texture, and nutritional value. Japanese cuisine is organized around this concept in a way that has no real parallel in most other food cultures. While Western cooking certainly acknowledges seasonality, the Japanese relationship with shun is more intimate, more demanding, and more philosophical.
For the Japanese, eating something at its shun is not merely a matter of optimal flavor — it is a form of attunement to nature, a way of placing oneself in harmony with the rhythm of the natural world. To eat fresh bamboo shoots in early spring, matsutake mushrooms in late autumn, or Pacific saury (sanma) in early fall is to participate in the turning of the year. The ingredients themselves become markers of time, as reliable and meaningful as the position of the sun.
This philosophy is given visible form in kaiseki cuisine — the refined multi-course meal associated with the tea ceremony tradition and fine Japanese restaurants. A great kaiseki meal tells the story of a specific moment in the year: every dish, from the first delicate appetizer to the final sweet, references the season through its ingredients, its garnishes, its colors, and the shape of the vessels in which it is served. In early November, you might find dishes containing autumn leaves, pine needles, and the first winter mushrooms. In April, cherry blossoms might appear in a delicate soup. The meal becomes a poem about the moment in which it is eaten, and the attentive diner leaves feeling not just nourished but more acutely aware of where they stand in time.
In 2013, Japanese cuisine (washoku) was inscribed on the UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage list, with the concept of shun and the harmonious relationship between Japanese food culture and the natural environment cited as key reasons for its world cultural significance. This was a formal global recognition of something Japanese people have known for centuries: that the way they eat is not just healthy or delicious, but wise.
Spring in Japan is announced at the table by the arrival of sansai — wild mountain vegetables that emerge from the forest floor as temperatures rise. Fuki no to (butterbur sprouts), taranome (angelica tree shoots), warabi (bracken fern), zenmai (Japanese royal fern), kogomi (ostrich fern), and udo (Japanese spikenard) are among the most prized. What unites them all is a quality that Japanese cuisine loves: a pleasant, gentle bitterness — the taste of spring itself.
This slight bitterness of spring vegetables has a deep cultural meaning. Japanese traditional medicine, influenced by Chinese medicine, taught that bitter foods consumed in spring help the body purge the accumulated heaviness of winter — that the slight hardship of the bitter taste is itself nourishing, a kind of internal spring cleaning. To eat sansai in March is to physically participate in the season's renewal.
The most beloved preparation is tempura — the sansai dipped in a delicate batter of cold water and flour and deep-fried until the outside is crispy and the inside barely cooked through, served with a dipping sauce of dashi broth, mirin, and soy sauce. Spring tempura, eaten at a good restaurant in April or May, is one of the definitive experiences of Japanese food culture: the clean, grassy fragrance of the mountain herbs, the light crunch of the batter, the perfect clarity of the dipping broth. It tastes, quite precisely, like springtime.
If sansai represents the wild, foraged side of spring, takenoko — bamboo shoots — represents spring's cultivated abundance. From mid-March through May, fresh bamboo shoots appear in markets across Japan, their tight sheaths still damp with earth, their interiors pale and tender and fragrant with a sweetness that will vanish within hours of harvesting.
The freshness imperative is absolute with takenoko. Bamboo shoots begin converting their sugars to starch almost immediately after being cut, and a shoot more than a day old has lost much of what makes it precious. The ideal takenoko is cut from the earth in the early morning and eaten for lunch the same day, and this is indeed how the best Japanese restaurants serve them: the menu item notes not just the ingredient but the provenance and day of harvest.
Takenoko gohan — bamboo shoot rice, cooked with dashi, soy sauce, and mirin, the sliced shoots nestled among the grains of fragrant Japanese rice — is the definitive spring rice dish. The combination of textures and flavors (the slight resistance of the bamboo, the softness of the rice, the warmth of the dashi) is a precise and irreplaceable pleasure. Many Japanese people cite takenoko gohan as one of the tastes most strongly associated with their childhood springs, with visits to grandparents' homes, with the particular quality of light in a Japanese house in April.
Cherry blossoms do not just decorate Japan in spring — they flavor it. The salt-pickled flower petals and leaves of the yaezakura (double cherry blossom) variety are used in a range of traditional spring foods: sakura-cha (cherry blossom tea), in which a single pickled blossom is placed in a cup of hot water and opens slowly as it steeps; sakura mochi, a traditional sweet of pink-tinted pounded rice cake wrapped in a fragrant pickled cherry leaf; and sakura-an, a pale pink sweet bean paste delicately flavored with cherry blossom.
The flavor of pickled sakura is subtle and specific: softly floral, faintly salty, with a woody note from the leaf. It is a taste uniquely associated with spring in Japan, and encountering it — in a traditional sweet during hanami, or in a cup of tea offered by a thoughtful host — produces an immediate emotional response in anyone who has experienced Japanese spring. Food and memory are always closely linked, but in Japan the link is especially tight because the ingredients themselves are so precisely seasonal.
Doyo no Ushi no Hi — the Day of the Ox in the summer 'doyo' period (the 18 days before the beginning of autumn on the Japanese calendar, typically falling in late July) — is Japan's great unagi (eel) day. On this day, Japanese people eat broiled freshwater eel as a traditional countermeasure against summer fatigue. The custom dates to at least the 18th century, when the eel seller Kobayashi Kandagawa reportedly hired the famous writer and artist Hiraga Gennai to create an advertising campaign emphasizing the nutritional benefits of eel on this specific day. The campaign worked better than anyone anticipated, and the tradition has continued ever since.
Japanese eel (nihon unagi) prepared in the kabayaki style — filleted, steamed, then grilled over charcoal while being repeatedly basted with a sweet soy-based tare (sauce) — is one of the transcendent pleasures of Japanese cuisine. The outside is caramelized to a deep mahogany glaze, slightly crispy, intensely savory-sweet; the inside is almost melting in its tenderness, rich with natural fat. Eaten over a bowl of white rice (unaju or unadon), with a lacquered lid that traps the fragrance until the moment of opening, it represents a form of luxury that is both refined and deeply satisfying.
The best unagi restaurants in Japan are institutions — some have been grilling eel on the same spot for over a hundred years, using accumulated tare sauces that have been replenished but never entirely replaced, building a depth of flavor across generations. The ritual of preparing and serving kabayaki unagi has its own formal procedures, and eating it in such a restaurant is an experience with genuine historical depth.
If unagi represents summer abundance, somen represents summer minimalism. These thin white wheat noodles, boiled in seconds and chilled in ice water until they are firm and cold, served with a simple dipping broth of dashi, soy sauce, and mirin, with a pile of finely sliced scallions, freshly grated ginger, and sesame seeds — this is the perfect Japanese summer meal. It is the culinary equivalent of a white linen shirt and bare feet.
The practice of nagashi-somen — 'flowing somen' — is one of Japan's most charming summer rituals. A long half-pipe of split bamboo is propped at an angle, with water flowing continuously from the top. Somen noodles are dropped into the water at the top and flow down through the channel; diners stationed along the bamboo channel pluck them out with chopsticks as they float past. The combination of the cool water, the precision required to catch the noodles, the sound of flowing water and the cicadas beyond — it is a perfect summer afternoon. Nagashi-somen restaurants can be found throughout Japan in mountainous areas, and the experience is considered quintessentially Japanese in its elegant simplicity.
Japan has taken the simple concept of flavored shaved ice and elevated it to something that can genuinely be called an art form. Modern Japanese kakigori — particularly the premium style that has developed over the past two decades — bears almost no resemblance to the snow cones of Western carnivals. Using blocks of 'natural ice' harvested in winter from mountain lakes and springs, then stored in specialized ice houses at constant temperature until summer, the best kakigori establishments in Japan produce shaved ice of an almost ghostly fineness — light as snow, with a texture that melts instantly on the tongue, absorbing the flavor of whatever is poured over it with perfect efficiency.
The toppings have become increasingly sophisticated: hand-made shiratama dumplings, house-made fruit compotes, premium matcha syrup from Uji or Nishio, condensed milk, kinako (roasted soybean powder), azuki beans cooked for hours until perfectly tender, and increasingly, savory elements that create unexpectedly complex flavor combinations. The best kakigori shops produce desserts of genuine culinary complexity — a bowl of summer that requires some thought to fully appreciate, like a well-composed piece of music.
Among all the ingredients that define the Japanese culinary year, none carries more prestige, more cultural weight, or more extraordinary sensory impact than matsutake (Tricholoma matsutake) — a wild mushroom that grows in the forests of red pine trees in late autumn and commands prices that can exceed 100,000 yen (approximately $700) per kilogram for the finest domestic specimens.
The price is justified by two things: extreme rarity and extraordinary fragrance. Matsutake grows only in very specific conditions — in old-growth red pine forests with particular soil chemistry, moisture levels, and temperatures — and attempts to cultivate it have completely failed. Every matsutake you eat was found by a human being walking through a forest, following a fragrance that those with experience can detect from several meters away.
That fragrance is matsutake's defining quality: a complex, penetrating aroma that combines spice (reminiscent of cinnamon and clove), forest floor, and something that can only be described as the essence of autumn itself. When you first encounter it — perhaps in a suimono (clear soup) in which a single slice of matsutake floats in the most delicate amber broth — it is a genuinely arresting experience. The fragrance fills not just the nose but, somehow, the entire head. It is intensely evocative. Many Japanese people associate the smell of matsutake with their most vivid autumn memories.
The classic matsutake preparations are deliberately simple: dobin mushi (steamed in a small clay teapot with fish broth and a few vegetables), matsutake gohan (rice cooked with the mushroom and minimal seasoning), and matsutake no suimono (clear soup). The simplicity is intentional — any complex seasoning would interfere with the fragrance that is the whole point of eating matsutake. You add as little as possible to let the ingredient speak with its own voice.
The Japanese chestnut (kuri) is another central figure in the autumn pantry. Larger and less sweet than European varieties, with a starchier, more potato-like texture, Japanese chestnuts are treated less as a sweet ingredient and more as a savory one — though they appear in both roles. Kuri gohan (chestnut rice) — made by cooking rice with peeled chestnuts in light dashi — is the great autumn rice dish, its beauty lying in the contrast between the white grains and the golden-brown chunks of chestnut, and the subtle earthiness the chestnut lends to the whole.
Winter in Japan is the season of nabe (hot pot) — communal dishes cooked at the table in a simmering broth. Families and friends gather around the pot, adding vegetables, tofu, meat, and seafood, then ladling the hot soup into their bowls. It is a ritual of warmth, togetherness, and comfort.
One of the most beloved winter dishes is oden — a slow-cooked stew of daikon radish, boiled eggs, fish cakes, and konnyaku (a chewy yam cake), all simmered in a light soy-based broth. Oden is sold at convenience stores, street stalls, and izakayas throughout the winter, and its aroma is synonymous with cold nights and cozy gatherings. Another winter specialty is fugu (pufferfish), a delicacy that must be prepared by licensed chefs due to its toxic organs. Served as sashimi or in a hot pot, fugu is prized for its delicate texture and subtle flavor.
Japanese winter cooking is dominated by nabe — 'hot pot' dishes in which ingredients are cooked together in a shared pot of broth on the table, with diners serving themselves directly from the pot over the course of a long, warm, convivial meal. The concept is simple; the variations are infinite; and the social meaning is profound.
To eat nabe with someone is an act of intimacy. You share the pot, you share the broth (which becomes richer and more complex as the meal progresses), you reach across the table to offer a piece of tofu or a tangle of glass noodles to someone whose bowl looks empty. In Japan's collectivist culture, the nabe embodies the ideal of communal harmony: the individual ingredients contribute to a shared whole, and the shared whole nourishes every individual. It is not an accident that the Japanese metaphor for a group or community is sometimes 'issho no nabe' — literally 'the same pot.'
The range of nabe dishes is extraordinary. Shabu-shabu — the most delicate, in which paper-thin slices of wagyu beef are swished briefly through a clear kelp broth and eaten with sesame or ponzu sauce — has become internationally known. Sukiyaki — beef cooked in a sweet-savory mixture of soy sauce, sugar, and sake, eaten dipped in raw egg — is richer and more assertive. Mizutaki (Fukuoka's famous chicken hot pot), Chanko nabe (the sumo wrestlers' nutritionally dense pot stew), Yudofu (Kyoto's meditative hot tofu in kelp broth), Ishikari nabe (Hokkaido's salmon and vegetable pot in miso broth) — each regional variation tells a story about the climate, resources, and character of the place it comes from.
Osechi ryori is one of the great culinary arts of Japan: the collection of traditional dishes prepared for the New Year celebration, each carefully chosen for its symbolic meaning, packed into a multi-tiered lacquered box (jubako) that is almost as beautiful as its contents. Every item in osechi tells a story — a prayer for the year ahead expressed through the language of food.
Kazunoko (herring roe) — the many, many eggs representing the desire for many children and the continuation of the family line. Kuromame (sweet black soybeans) — 'mame' means both 'bean' and 'diligent/healthy,' so this dish is a prayer to live the coming year in good health and with hard-working spirit. Tazukuri (candied dried sardines, also called gomame) — the small fish were historically used as fertilizer for rice paddies, and eating them is a prayer for abundant harvest. Ebi (shrimp) — the curved shape of a cooked shrimp resembles an old person bowing, and eating it is a prayer for long life. Datemaki (sweet rolled omelet with fish paste) — its rolled shape resembles a scroll, making it a symbol of learning and cultural achievement.
The list goes on: lotus root (renkon, whose holes allow you to 'see the future clearly'), rolled kelp (kobumaki, whose name puns with 'yorokobu,' to rejoice), chestnut gold paste (kinton, for financial prosperity), and many more — each region in Japan adding its own distinctive items to the national template.
Preparing osechi begins days in advance of New Year's Eve and constitutes one of the most demanding culinary undertakings of the Japanese domestic year. Today, many families purchase ready-made osechi from department stores or restaurants, but the symbolic meaning of each dish remains understood. Opening the jubako on the morning of New Year's Day, with all its carefully arranged colors and shapes, is a moment of aesthetic pleasure and cultural reaffirmation simultaneously: this is who we are, these are our hopes, this is the food our ancestors ate, and these are the prayers that have sustained Japan for generations.
On New Year's Eve (Omisoka, December 31), the single most important food ritual of the Japanese year takes place in almost every home across the country: the eating of toshikoshi soba — 'year-crossing soba noodles.' Thin, slippery buckwheat noodles are eaten in a light broth with simple toppings, usually before or around midnight.
The symbolism is multiple and elegant. Soba noodles are long — longer life. They cut cleanly — cutting ties with the troubles and misfortunes of the old year. They are made from buckwheat, which recovers quickly after being beaten down by wind or rain — resilience, the ability to bounce back from adversity. And they are simple, unadorned, modest — a reminder that as you enter the new year, humility and simplicity are virtues worth carrying.
Eating toshikoshi soba in Japan on New Year's Eve, with the sound of temple bells beginning their 108-toll countdown (joyanokane) in the distance, is one of those experiences that connects you, however briefly and imperfectly, to the full depth of Japanese time. Families that have eaten this same bowl of noodles on this same evening for a hundred years. Cities where the bells have not missed a year since the temple was founded in the 12th century. A country that has found a way to make the simple act of eating noodles into a statement of philosophical depth and communal solidarity. This is Japan.
Japan has four seasons — spring, summer, autumn, winter — as do many other countries. But in Japan, the seasons are experienced with an intensity and a cultural weight that has few parallels. The Japanese have developed, over millennia, an unusually refined awareness of the seasonal world: its rhythms, its textures, its fragrances, its emotional colorings. The Japanese language is extraordinarily rich in terms for seasonal phenomena. There are multiple words for different kinds of spring rain, for different qualities of autumn light, for the specific loneliness of a winter dawn. The Japanese poetic tradition — particularly haiku — is organized entirely around seasonal references (kigo, or 'season words') that must appear in every poem, situating the moment of observation within the turning year.
This deep seasonal awareness is not merely literary or aesthetic — it is practical and physical. Traditional Japanese medicine, architecture, clothing, and daily life are all organized around seasonal transitions. The Japanese house, with its sliding screens that can open the interior completely to the garden in summer or be sealed against the cold in winter, is a machine for experiencing the seasons. The Japanese wardrobe, with its precisely calendared transitions from spring fabrics to summer yukata to autumn wools to winter silks, makes the body itself a seasonal instrument.
Understanding the seasons is not incidental to understanding Japan — it is central. The Japanese sense of self, of time, of beauty, of what makes life worth living: all of these are profoundly seasonal. When a Japanese person says 'It's spring' or 'Autumn has come,' they are saying something much richer than a weather report. They are invoking a whole constellation of sensory memories, cultural associations, and emotional states that have been refined over centuries of careful attention to the natural world.
Japanese spring is announced by the cherry blossoms (sakura), and it is impossible to overstate how deeply the cherry blossom has shaped Japanese culture, psychology, and aesthetics. The cherry blossom season (usually late March to mid-April, depending on location and year) is Japan's most publicly shared aesthetic experience — the one moment when the entire nation simultaneously witnesses the same beauty and feels the same emotions.
The sakura-zensen (cherry blossom front) is tracked by meteorologists and broadcast in national news with the same gravity given to significant events. It moves northward across the country over about six weeks, beginning in Kyushu and ending in Hokkaido, and millions of people plan their calendars around it — taking days off work, traveling to famous viewing spots, organizing picnics with family and friends under the flowering trees.
The hanami (flower-viewing) picnic is one of Japan's most beloved social rituals. Groups spread their blue plastic tarps under cherry trees in parks, temple grounds, and riverbanks, setting out enormous quantities of food and drink, and spend hours in a state of cheerful, slightly melancholy appreciation of the blossoms falling around them. The atmosphere is quieter than spring, more reflective. There is a sense that the year is ending, that nature is preparing for sleep, and that this very fact is what makes life precious.
The spring landscape beyond the cherry blossoms is equally extraordinary. The terraced rice fields (tanada) of rural Japan are refilled with water in spring, and in the evening light they become mirrors reflecting clouds and mountains and the surrounding trees, creating landscapes of meditative beauty. The mountains shed their winter grey for greens of every shade — from the pale yellow-green of new bamboo leaves to the deep, saturated green of old cedar and cypress forests. Wisteria (fuji) drapes its long purple-blue clusters over trellises and wild vines, its fragrance — sweet, powdery, slightly intoxicating — drifting into gardens and temple courtyards. Yellow forsythia, white plum, pink peach: spring in Japan is a sustained explosion of gentle color that unfolds over weeks, each flower ceding to the next in a choreography as carefully considered as any theatrical production.
Japanese summer is not gentle. From June through August, the combination of heat and humidity in most of Japan is physically demanding — temperatures regularly above 35 degrees Celsius, humidity levels that make the air feel solid. The Japanese response to this has been to develop a summer culture that is at once practical (keeping as cool as possible) and spiritually rich (finding in the intensity of summer an appropriate setting for the intense experiences of the season's festivals and observances).
Summer is the season of matsuri, fireworks (hanabi), and outdoor life. People wear yukata (light cotton kimonos) and gather at rivers and parks to watch fireworks displays that light up the night sky with cascading colors. The sound of cicadas (semi) becomes the soundtrack of summer — their relentless, pulsing chorus filling the air from dawn to dusk, a sound so omnipresent that its absence in autumn feels like a sudden silence.
Summer in Japan is the season of the dead. Obon (mid-August) is the period when the souls of deceased ancestors are believed to return to the world of the living. Families clean their ancestors' graves, light welcoming fires (mukaebi) on the evening of August 13 to guide the spirits home, spend three days with the ancestral presence in their homes, and then light farewell fires (okuri-bi) on August 16 to see the spirits back to the other world. The famous Daimonji bonfire on the hills above Kyoto — enormous fires burned in the shapes of specific kanji characters, including the character 大 (dai, meaning 'great') — is the most spectacular version of this farewell rite, visible from across the city.
The summer landscape is one of vivid contrasts. The deep blue of the Pacific sky against the brilliant green of the mountains. The white sails of cicadas' song (higurashi, the evening cicadas, whose call has an almost unbearable poignancy — a high, pure sound that seems to contain the entire melancholy of ending summer). The fireflies (hotaru) that appear in the cool evenings of June and July along rivers and in rice paddies, their cold green light drifting through the darkness — a sight so beautiful and so specifically Japanese that it has inspired poetry, music, and painting for centuries. Firefly-viewing (hotarugari) is a summer tradition that remains completely unchanged: you simply go to a river in the evening, sit quietly, and watch the lights move through the darkness. No technology required. No ticket needed. Just attention and patience, and the reward is extraordinary.
The famous Japanese summer fireworks (hanabi taikai) reach their peak in late July and August, with the great events at Sumida River, Nagaoka, and dozens of regional competitions producing displays that are genuinely world-class in their technical accomplishment and aesthetic beauty. Watching fireworks in yukata (light cotton kimono) with a cold beer and a paper fan, on a blanket spread beside a river while warm summer air carries the smell of festivals and gunpowder — this is a quintessential Japanese summer pleasure that cuts directly across cultural difference. It is simply wonderful, and it requires no prior knowledge of Japan to feel it.
Summer is also the season of the ocean. Families flock to beaches, and coastal towns come alive with beach houses, grilled seafood, and the sound of waves. In the mountains, hikers climb sacred peaks like Mount Fuji, which is only open for climbing during the summer months. Despite the heat, summer in Japan is a season of celebration, movement, and connection with the natural world. The intensity of the heat makes every cool breeze, every cold drink, every moment of shade feel like a blessing — and this heightened awareness of small comforts is itself a form of mindfulness that summer teaches.
We will devote an entire chapter to Japanese autumn later in this book, because it deserves it. But let us say here: if spring is the season of hopeful beginning and summer is the season of intense life, autumn in Japan is the season when everything is exactly right. The heat breaks in September with clean, clear air. The light becomes golden and horizontal, the shadows long and defined. The mountains begin to color — first the high peaks, where the cold comes early, then gradually down to the valleys and coastal plains — until by November the entire country is a study in the most intense and varied palette of reds, oranges, yellows, and greens that nature anywhere produces.
Koyo (autumn leaves/foliage) is Japan's second great shared aesthetic experience, equivalent in cultural weight to the spring cherry blossoms but with a different emotional character. Where sakura is delicate, brief, and slightly melancholy — its beauty inseparable from its evanescence — koyo is generous and sustained, lasting weeks rather than days, building in richness as the season deepens, offering again and again the same gift of color and light in different settings and combinations. The emotional tone of koyo is not grief but gratitude: this is the world at its most beautiful, and you are here to see it.
The specific emotional quality of Japanese autumn — its combination of physical comfort, visual abundance, and gentle philosophical depth — has a Japanese name: "akibare," the perfect clear weather of autumn. Under akibare skies, with the temperature just crisp enough to make movement pleasurable, the light golden and clear, the air smelling faintly of wood smoke and fallen leaves, every sensory experience in Japan seems to become maximally itself. Food tastes better. Landscapes look more beautiful. Conversations feel more meaningful. Even silence sounds richer. This is not subjective impression — it is a consistent experience reported by visitors from around the world. Japanese autumn is simply one of the finest gifts the natural world offers.
Japanese winter has two faces. On the Pacific coast — Tokyo, Osaka, Kyoto, and most of the major cities — winter is relatively mild and extraordinarily dry. The skies are an intense, luminous blue that is unique to the season, the air crystalline and still. Against this brilliant blue, Mount Fuji appears on clear days from Tokyo, its perfect cone dusted white above a haze of grey-brown lowland — an image so iconic that it has become synonymous with Japan itself in much of the world's imagination. The winter light in Pacific coast Japan is genuinely beautiful: clear, cool, and precise, it makes everything look slightly etched, slightly more defined than at other times of year.
On the Japan Sea coast — Niigata, Kanazawa, Akita, Yamagata, and the northern mountains — winter is a completely different story. The cold air from the Asian continent picks up moisture crossing the Japan Sea and deposits it as enormous quantities of snow on the mountains and lowlands facing west. These are among the snowiest inhabited places on earth: some areas of Niigata Prefecture receive well over 10 meters of snow annually. Traditional architecture in these regions — the steep-roofed gassho-zukuri farmhouses of the Shirakawa-go area, for instance, designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site — was specifically engineered to bear and shed this weight of snow. Walking through a snow-covered village in the Japan Alps in deep winter, with the sound of creaking snow-laden branches and the particular silence that heavy snowfall creates, is one of the most profoundly peaceful experiences the Japanese landscape offers.
The Japanese hot spring (onsen) culture reaches its most perfect expression in winter. Soaking in an outdoor hot spring bath (rotenburo) in the snow — the water at 40-45 degrees Celsius, steam rising around you, the cold air cooling your face while your body is enveloped in heat, the landscape white and still — is one of those experiences that travelers to Japan consistently describe as among the most physically and psychologically pleasurable of their lives. The combination of elemental contrasts (fire and ice, inside and outside, water and air), the complete physical relaxation, and the extraordinary beauty of the snowy landscape creates a state of consciousness that is difficult to achieve by any other means. Japan has over 27,000 hot spring facilities — the highest density of any country in the world — and in the deepest winter months, they are all busy with people seeking exactly this experience.
Japanese winter also contains two of the year's most important spiritual events. Christmas is celebrated in Japan (though not as a religious observance but rather as a romantic and commercial festival, quite unlike its Western form), and New Year — the most important celebration of the Japanese year — brings families together and fills the country's shrines and temples with the largest crowds of the year for hatsumode, the first shrine visit of the new year, in which prayers are offered for health, happiness, and good fortune in the months ahead. The atmosphere at a major shrine on the first three days of January — the crowds, the smoke from the incense, the sound of shrine bells and clapping hands, the vendors selling amulets and arrow-shaped talismans (hamaya) — is unlike any other experience in Japan, rich with hope and tradition and the sense of collective renewal.
Winter in Japan is a season of contrasts. In the north, heavy snow blankets the landscape, transforming villages into scenes from a fairy tale. In the south, the weather remains mild, and plum blossoms begin to bloom as early as February, signaling the approach of spring. Winter is the season of hot springs (onsen), where people soak in steaming mineral waters while snow falls around them.
Winter is also the season of New Year (Shogatsu), the most important holiday in Japan. Families gather to eat traditional foods, visit shrines to pray for good fortune, and watch the first sunrise of the year (hatsuhinode). Temples ring their bells 108 times on New Year's Eve to cleanse the 108 earthly desires that cause human suffering. Winter in Japan is a time of purification, renewal, and quiet hope.
To understand Japan, you must first understand the Japanese people — not as stereotypes or caricatures, but as individuals shaped by a unique history, geography, and philosophy. The Japanese are often described as polite, hardworking, reserved, and group-oriented. These descriptions are not wrong, but they barely scratch the surface. Beneath the surface lies a complex psychology forged by centuries of living on a small, resource-scarce island nation prone to earthquakes, typhoons, and tsunamis.
The single most important concept for understanding Japanese behavior is "wa" (和), which means harmony, peace, or balance. In Japanese culture, maintaining wa — avoiding conflict, preserving group cohesion, and ensuring smooth social interactions — is considered more important than individual expression or personal desires. This does not mean Japanese people have no individuality; it means they have learned to express it in ways that do not disrupt the group.
Wa is why Japanese people rarely say "no" directly. Instead, they use phrases like "It might be difficult" or "I will consider it" — indirect ways of declining without causing confrontation. Wa is why Japanese meetings often seem to reach consensus effortlessly: the real negotiation happened beforehand, in private conversations designed to ensure everyone is aligned before the formal meeting. Wa is why Japanese trains run on time, why people queue patiently, why strangers bow to each other — because every small act of consideration contributes to the collective harmony.
Japanese etiquette is not a list of arbitrary rules designed to confuse foreigners. It is a system of behavior that has evolved over centuries to maintain social harmony, show respect, and create predictable, comfortable interactions. Understanding these rules will not only help you avoid embarrassment — it will allow you to experience Japan more deeply and connect with Japanese people in meaningful ways.
The bow is the most fundamental gesture in Japanese culture. It is used to greet, to thank, to apologize, to show respect, and to say goodbye. The depth and duration of the bow convey different levels of formality and emotion. A quick 15-degree nod is a casual greeting between friends. A 30-degree bow is standard for business interactions. A 45-degree bow is reserved for deep apologies or expressions of profound gratitude.
When bowing, keep your back straight, your hands at your sides (for men) or clasped in front (for women), and your eyes lowered. Do not bow while walking or talking — stop, bow, then continue. If someone bows to you, bow back. The depth of your bow should match theirs, or be slightly deeper if they are older or of higher status. Bowing is not just a physical act; it is a moment of mindfulness, a pause in which you acknowledge the other person's presence and worth.
In Japan, the boundary between outside and inside is sacred. Shoes carry dirt, pollution, and the chaos of the outside world, and they must never cross into clean, private spaces. You will remove your shoes when entering homes, traditional restaurants, temples, some museums, and even some fitting rooms in clothing stores.
The process is simple but important: step up to the entrance, remove your shoes, turn them around so they face the door (making it easy to slip them back on when you leave), and step into the provided slippers. If you enter a tatami mat room, remove even the slippers — tatami is considered too sacred to walk on with any footwear. When using the bathroom, change into the special bathroom slippers provided, and never forget to change back when you leave. Wearing bathroom slippers into the main room is one of the most embarrassing mistakes a foreigner can make.
Chopsticks are not just eating utensils in Japan — they are tools imbued with cultural significance. There are several strict taboos you must never violate. Never stick your chopsticks upright in a bowl of rice; this resembles a funeral ritual where rice is offered to the dead. Never pass food directly from your chopsticks to someone else's chopsticks; this also mimics a funeral custom where bones are passed between family members after cremation.
Do not point with your chopsticks, wave them around, or use them to move dishes. When not in use, rest them on the chopstick holder (hashioki) provided, or lay them across your bowl. If you need to take food from a shared plate, use the opposite (non-eating) end of your chopsticks, or use the serving utensils provided. These rules may seem excessive, but they reflect a deep respect for food, for the people you are eating with, and for the rituals that bind communities together.
Gift-giving in Japan is a complex social ritual governed by unspoken rules. When you visit someone's home, you bring a gift — usually food or sweets from your hometown or a place you recently visited. These gifts are called "omiyage" (お土産), and they serve as tokens of gratitude and connection. The gift should be beautifully wrapped (most stores will wrap it for you), and it should be presented with both hands and a slight bow.
When receiving a gift, accept it with both hands, bow, and express gratitude — but do not open it immediately. In Japanese culture, opening a gift in front of the giver is considered rude, as it shifts focus to the object rather than the gesture. Wait until you are alone to open it. If you receive a gift, you are expected to give one of roughly equal value in return at a later date. This reciprocal exchange is not transactional — it is a way of maintaining relationships and showing that you value the connection.
One of the most common observations foreigners make about Japan is how kind, helpful, and considerate the people are. This is not an accident, nor is it a performance for tourists. It is the result of a deeply ingrained cultural value called "omotenashi" (おもてなし) — a concept that goes far beyond simple hospitality.
Omotenashi is often translated as "hospitality," but this translation misses the depth of the concept. Omotenashi means anticipating the needs of others before they are expressed, and fulfilling those needs without expectation of reward or recognition. It is the hotel staff who remembers your name after one visit. It is the shopkeeper who runs after you to return the coin you dropped. It is the stranger who walks you to your destination rather than simply pointing the way.
Omotenashi is rooted in the tea ceremony tradition, where the host prepares every detail of the experience — the arrangement of flowers, the selection of utensils, the temperature of the water — with the sole purpose of making the guest feel honored and at ease. This philosophy has spread throughout Japanese society, shaping how people interact in restaurants, shops, trains, and even on the street. To practice omotenashi is to treat every interaction as an opportunity to create a moment of grace.
Japanese kindness is not just personal virtue — it is social responsibility. In a society built on interdependence, where natural disasters are frequent and resources are limited, survival has always depended on cooperation. Helping others is not charity; it is an investment in the collective well-being. When a Japanese person helps a lost tourist, they are not just being nice — they are upholding a social contract that says, "We take care of each other, because we are all in this together."
This sense of collective responsibility was most visible during the 2011 earthquake and tsunami. Despite the devastation, there was no looting, no panic, no violence. People waited in orderly lines for food and water. Strangers shared their supplies. Rescue workers bowed to the bodies they recovered. The world watched in astonishment, but for Japanese people, this behavior was simply what was expected. In times of crisis, you do not think of yourself first — you think of the group.
It is important to understand that Japanese kindness, while genuine, often comes with emotional distance. Japanese people are trained from childhood to be considerate, polite, and helpful — but also to maintain boundaries. They will go out of their way to assist you, but they may not invite you into their inner circle. They will smile and bow, but they may not share their true feelings.
This is not coldness; it is respect for privacy and personal space. In a crowded country where people live in close quarters, emotional boundaries are essential for maintaining sanity and harmony. Foreigners sometimes mistake this reserve for unfriendliness, but it is actually a form of consideration — a way of not imposing on others. If you are patient, respectful, and sincere, those boundaries can gradually soften, and you may find yourself welcomed into the deeper layers of Japanese friendship.
The relationship between Japan and the Philippines is one of the most remarkable and complex in Asia. It is a relationship shaped by centuries of trade, decades of conflict, and a modern era of deep mutual respect and affection. Today, hundreds of thousands of Filipinos live and work in Japan, and the bond between the two nations continues to grow stronger with each passing year.
The connection between Japan and the Philippines dates back to at least the 16th century, when Japanese traders and merchants established communities in Manila and other Philippine ports. These early Japanese settlers, known as "Japinos," married into Filipino families and became part of the local culture. Archaeological evidence suggests that trade between the two regions may have existed even earlier, with Japanese pottery and goods found in Philippine excavation sites.
During the Spanish colonial period, the relationship became more formalized. Japanese merchants traded silk, swords, and lacquerware for Philippine gold, pearls, and tropical goods. The two cultures influenced each other in subtle ways — Japanese craftsmanship techniques appeared in Filipino metalwork, while Filipino agricultural knowledge influenced Japanese farming practices in certain regions.
The darkest chapter in Japanese-Filipino relations was World War II, when Japan occupied the Philippines from 1942 to 1945. The occupation was brutal, marked by violence, forced labor, and atrocities that left deep scars on the Filipino people. The Battle of Manila in 1945 was one of the most destructive urban battles of the war, leaving the city in ruins and claiming over 100,000 civilian lives.
What makes the modern relationship so remarkable is how both nations have worked to heal these wounds. Japan has formally apologized multiple times and provided significant economic aid to the Philippines. Filipino leaders have emphasized forgiveness and reconciliation. Survivors of the war have met with Japanese veterans in ceremonies of mutual respect. The relationship today is not built on forgetting the past, but on acknowledging it and choosing to move forward together.
Today, Japan is home to over 300,000 Filipino residents, making Filipinos one of the largest foreign communities in the country. Many work as nurses, caregivers, engineers, teachers, and entertainers. Filipino workers are highly valued in Japan for their warmth, dedication, and English proficiency. In turn, many Filipinos speak fondly of their time in Japan, praising the safety, cleanliness, and orderliness of Japanese society.
The cultural affinity between the two nations runs deep. Both cultures place high value on family, respect for elders, hospitality, and hard work. Both have strong traditions of communal celebration — Filipino fiestas and Japanese matsuri share a similar spirit of joyful togetherness. Both nations have experienced natural disasters and have developed resilience and mutual aid as core values. These shared values create a natural bond that goes beyond economics or politics.
Japan is a land of gods. Not one god, not a pantheon of twelve, but "yaoyorozu no kami" (八百万の神) — eight million gods. This number is not literal; it is a poetic way of saying "countless" or "infinite." In the Shinto worldview, kami (gods or spirits) exist everywhere: in mountains, rivers, trees, stones, the wind, the ocean, the rice field, even the hearth of a home. The world is not a dead collection of matter — it is alive, sacred, and watched over by divine presences. A matsuri is the moment when the human community and the divine world make formal contact. It is a two-way conversation: humans express gratitude and ask for blessings, and the gods accept the offerings and renew their protection.
A kami is not a god in the Western sense — an all-powerful, all-knowing creator who exists outside of nature. A kami is a presence, a force, a spirit that inhabits the natural world and influences human life. Some kami are grand and powerful, like Amaterasu, the sun goddess and ancestor of the imperial family. Others are small and local, like the kami of a particular mountain stream or the spirit of a centuries-old tree.
Kami are not necessarily benevolent. They can be helpful or harmful, gentle or fierce, depending on how they are treated. A kami who is honored and respected will bring blessings — good harvests, safe journeys, healthy children. A kami who is neglected or offended may bring misfortune — storms, illness, crop failure. This is why rituals, offerings, and festivals are so important in Shinto practice. They are not just expressions of faith; they are acts of negotiation and relationship-building with the divine.
While there are countless kami, a few are particularly important in Japanese mythology and daily life. Amaterasu Omikami, the sun goddess, is said to be the ancestor of the Japanese imperial family and the source of light and life. Her main shrine, Ise Jingu, is the most sacred site in Japan, rebuilt every 20 years in a ritual that has continued for over 1,300 years.
Inari, the kami of rice, agriculture, and prosperity, is one of the most popular deities in Japan. Inari shrines are recognizable by their rows of red torii gates and statues of foxes, which are considered Inari's messengers. Susanoo, the storm god and brother of Amaterasu, is a wild and unpredictable kami associated with the sea, storms, and heroic deeds. His most famous myth involves slaying an eight-headed serpent to save a princess, a story that has inspired countless works of art and literature.
Shinto is not a religion in the conventional sense. It has no founder, no sacred scripture, no fixed dogma. It is a way of life, a set of practices and attitudes that shape how Japanese people relate to the world around them. Most Japanese people do not identify as "religious," yet they participate in Shinto rituals throughout their lives: visiting shrines on New Year's Day, praying for success before exams, purifying themselves before entering sacred spaces, and celebrating life transitions with Shinto ceremonies.
Shinto teaches that the world is fundamentally good, that nature is sacred, and that humans are part of — not separate from — the natural order. This worldview has profound implications for Japanese culture. It is why Japanese people feel such a deep connection to the changing seasons. It is why they treat objects with care and respect, believing that even inanimate things can develop a spirit if used with love. It is why they bow to mountains, thank their food before eating, and feel a sense of awe when standing before an ancient tree. Shinto is not something Japanese people believe in — it is something they live.
If you can only visit Japan once in your life, go in autumn. Not spring, despite the cherry blossoms. Not summer, despite the festivals. Not winter, despite the snow. Go in autumn — specifically, from mid-October to late November — and you will witness Japan at its most beautiful, most serene, and most spiritually profound.
Autumn in Japan is synonymous with koyo (紅葉) — the turning of the leaves. From late October through November, the mountains, forests, and gardens of Japan transform into a symphony of color. Maple trees (momiji) turn brilliant shades of crimson and scarlet. Ginkgo trees glow golden yellow. Oak and beech trees add layers of orange, amber, and rust. The effect is not gradual — it is explosive, as if the entire landscape has been set on fire.
The Japanese have been celebrating koyo for over a thousand years. Just as they gather for hanami (cherry blossom viewing) in spring, they gather for "momijigari" (maple leaf hunting) in autumn. Families pack lunches and travel to famous viewing spots — mountain temples, lakeside parks, historic gardens — to walk among the colored leaves and contemplate the beauty of impermanence. The atmosphere is quieter than spring, more reflective. There is a sense that the year is ending, that nature is preparing for sleep, and that this very fact is what makes life precious.
But the real reason autumn is Japan's greatest season is not the colors, the weather, or the food. It is the feeling. Autumn in Japan carries a unique emotional quality that the Japanese call "mono no aware" (物の哀れ) — a bittersweet awareness of the transience of all things. It is the feeling you get when you watch the leaves fall and realize that beauty is inseparable from impermanence. It is the understanding that nothing lasts forever, and that this very fact is what makes life precious.
This philosophy is woven into every aspect of Japanese culture, but it is most palpable in autumn. The falling leaves are not mourned — they are celebrated. The end of the year is not feared — it is honored. There is a quiet acceptance, a grace in letting go, that feels deeply human and deeply wise. To experience autumn in Japan is to understand, on a visceral level, what it means to live fully in the present moment, to appreciate beauty while it lasts, and to find peace in the knowledge that all things must pass.
If you visit Japan in autumn, do not rush. Do not try to see everything. Choose a few places — a temple in Kyoto, a mountain path in Nikko, a garden in Tokyo — and spend time there. Sit on a bench. Watch the leaves fall. Listen to the wind. Let the season speak to you. Autumn in Japan is not a spectacle to be consumed; it is a meditation to be experienced. And if you allow yourself to truly be present, you will carry that experience with you for the rest of your life.
This is only the beginning of your journey into the wonderful world of Japan. In Part 2, we will explore Japanese etiquette, the art of communication, the philosophy of omotenashi (hospitality), and the deep spiritual traditions that shape daily life.
Written and researched by the LIVERARY editorial team
March 15, 2026